「和」を知る・「和」を楽しむ・「和」を伝える日本のスペシャリストになろう！
週刊メールマガジン「伝検通信」第31号をお届けします。
今号のトップ記事は、だしの原料確保が難しくなっている話題です。
「クイズで肩慣らし」は前回クイズの答え・解説と、食文化・歳時記分野からの出題です。
今月29日から実施する２級および３級の第１回伝検の受験申し込みを受け付けています。公式テキスト、２級受験者向けオンライン講座の販売もスタートしています。ぜひお申し込みください。
伝検申込サイト https://denken-test.jp/ examination/
目次
・ 「あごだし」の原料確保がピンチ？ 沖縄、隠岐、伊豆諸島…離島の伝統漁法が消滅の危機
・ 「クイズで肩慣らし」第３１回（食文化・歳時記）＝「燗酒」
・ 伝検協会だより
「あごだし」の原料確保がピンチ？ 沖縄、隠岐、伊豆諸島…離島の伝統漁法が消滅の危機
時事通信水産部長 川本大吾
「アギヤー漁」で取れたグルクンの稚魚。カツオ一本釣り漁に使う餌となる
（沖縄県宮古島市の観光業者提供）【時事通信社】
過疎化が進む日本各地の離島で、後継者不足から伝統的な漁法が消滅の危機に直面している。地域特産の自慢の魚を確保する貴重な生産手段だけに、地元自治体や漁業関係者は、担い手確保へＰＲを行いながら、伝統漁法を将来に継承しようと必死だ。
◇カツオ漁の餌を取るアギヤー漁師が不足
沖縄県の伊良部島（宮古島市）では、６～７人で海中に潜りながらグルクン（タカサゴ）を狙う「アギヤー漁」の存続が厳しくなっている。グルクンの成魚は、刺し身や唐揚げにして食べられているが、３～５センチの稚魚は、島の基幹漁業であるカツオ一本釣りに使う餌になる。
沖縄県のカツオ一本釣り漁船は計５隻。このうち４隻が伊良部島の漁船で、１００年の歴史があるという。６～８月が伊良部島東部の佐良浜漁港から出港するカツオ一本釣り漁の最盛期に当たり、豊漁への期待が高まっている。
ところが近年、伊良部島の漁業者は「カツオ漁に欠かせないグルクン稚魚の確保が、ままならない状況」と嘆く。「アギヤー漁を行う漁師の高齢化などにより、人数が確保できず、漁に出られないことが少なくない」（伊良部島漁業協同組合）ためだ。
餌が足りないとき、同島内で調達できる冷凍のキビナゴを使うこともあるが、地元漁業者は「グルクンに比べ、カツオの食い付きが随分と落ちる」と説明する。アギヤー漁ができずに餌が少なく、「カツオ漁も断念せざるを得ないことがある」（同）という。
島では若者の都市への流出が多く、人口減少に歯止めが掛からず、高齢化は顕著だ。地元漁業者は「アギヤー漁だけでなく、カツオ一本釣りも衰退してしまう」と危機感を募らせており、インターネット交流サイト（ＳＮＳ）なども使って「海に潜れる人はぜひアギヤー漁に加わって」と、島外にも漁への仲間入りを呼び掛けている。
◇あごだしの原料「トビウオが手に入らない」
島根県の隠岐諸島沿岸でも、伝統漁法に黄信号がともっている。この地域では昔から、すっきりとした味わいで人気の「あごだし」を作ってきた。その原料となるトビウオを取る刺し網や引き網漁は、漁業者の高齢化や漁獲量の減少などで出漁が減っており、トビウオの確保が難しくなっているという。
地元ではトビウオをあごだしのほか、干物や薫製、ミンチなどさまざまな加工品にして消費している。こうした伝統の味も作れなくなるのではと嘆く加工業者が少なくない。
隠岐の水産業を守ろうと、島根県は漁業者確保に向けた研修や、漁業者としての独立を目指す支援金制度を設けている。しかし、最盛期は６月を中心に１カ月ほどと短いトビウオ漁だけでは生計を立てられないのが難点だ。
どうにか、刺し網や引き網漁を存続させようと、アワビやサザエの潜り漁のほか、メバルやイサキを対象とした刺し網漁など「他の漁法を組み合わせた複合型漁業で、隠岐の漁師になってほしい」（同県）と訴えている。
◇建切網漁なども消滅の危機－伊豆諸島
伊豆諸島でも、古くから行われてきた漁法が危機にひんしている。神津島や新島の沿岸で行われてきた「建切網漁」は、海底から水面まで帯状の大きな網で囲んで高級魚のタカベなどを取っていた。
泳ぐ魚を陸へと寄せながら、次第に網を狭めてすくい取る珍しい漁法で、かつて氷が手に入りにくかった時代には、魚体に傷みが少ない新鮮な魚が江戸まで運ばれ、重宝されていたようだ。ところが近年、建切網漁は、低調な水揚げや漁業者の高齢化などから、都の水産課は「ほとんど行われなくなってしまった」と説明する。
伊豆諸島ではこのほか、八丈島で「くさや」の原料となるムロアジなどを取る棒受け網や、トビウオなどを取る刺し網漁なども、漁業者の減少などで存続が危ぶまれている。
東京都の水産課は、こうした伝統漁法について「いったん行われなくなれば、漁具はもちろん、漁のさまざまな技法についても、受け継がれず途絶えてしまう」と危機感を募らせる。漁業は島にとって重要な産業でもあるため、「伝統漁法をどうにか後世に残せないか、都として支援策を急いで検討していく」としている。
▼時事ドットコムニュース（2022年5月24日掲載） 連載 「大漁！ 水産部長の魚トピックス」 より
「クイズで肩慣らし」第３１回（食文化・歳時記）＝「燗酒」
～伝検公式テキスト（好評発売中）の分野ごとに出題します～
日本酒の味わいが引き立つお燗
問題：秋も深まり、燗酒（かんざけ）がおいしい季節となりました。日本酒を温めて飲む「燗」の習慣が始まったのは、何時代でしょうか。 （答えと解説は次号で）
茶道で抹茶を点（た）てる一連の所作、点前（てまえ）
【前回の答えと解説】
問題：茶の湯では、10月も半ばをすぎると「名残（なごり）」 という時季を迎え、秋には茶会が多く開催されます。 最近よく見かける、テーブルといすを使って行うお茶の点前（ てまえ）を何というでしょうか。
答え：立礼点前（りゅうれいてまえ）
解説：立礼点前は、茶席をテーブル式で行うもので、亭主も客も椅子に座って茶会に臨みます。裏千家十一代玄々斎（げんげんさい）が、京都府知事の依頼を受け、1872年の京都博覧会で外国人客をもてなすために考案しました。道具さえあれば茶室でなくても開催でき、外国人だけでなく、お年寄り、正座が苦手な人も、茶道の様式美を感じながら気軽にお茶を楽しめます。
伝検協会だより
▼伝検合格者向け特典に、弊会会員のメイド・イン・ジャパン・
編集後記
伝検通信第３１号をお届けしました。芥川賞作家の木内昇の小説「櫛挽道守（くしひきちもり）」を読んでいたところ、職人の技は個人のものではなく、先祖からの借り物で次の世代に渡さないといけないんだ、というセリフがあり、膝を打ちました。今ある技術を広めて伝え、次世代に渡していくことも伝検の役割だと感じた次第です。今月末から試験が始まります。
【English version】
Weekly e-mail magazine “DENKEN TSUSHIN” No. 31
We are pleased to present the 31st issue of our weekly e-mail newsletter, DENKEN TSUSHIN.
The top article in this issue is about the increasing difficulty in securing dashi ingredients.
In the “Quiz to familiarize yourself” section, you will find the answers and explanations to the previous quiz, as well as questions from the field of food culture and seasonal records.
We are now accepting applications for the first DENKEN test for Level 2 and Level 3, which will be held on the 29th of this month. The official textbook and online course for Level 2 test takers are also available for purchase. Please apply now.
Denken application website: https://denken-test.jp/ examination/
Table of Contents
・Is securing raw materials for “chin dashi” in a pinch? Okinawa, Oki, Izu Islands…Traditional Fishing Methods on Remote Islands in Danger of Disappearing
・Let’s Practice with Quizzes No. 31 = (Food Culture, Chronicle) = “ Warmed Sake”.
・From the Denken Kyokai
Is securing the raw materials for “chin dashi” in a pinch? Okinawa, Oki, Izu Islands… Traditional fishing methods on remote islands are in danger of disappearing.
Daigo Kawamoto, Director, Jiji Press Fisheries Dept.
Gurukun fry caught in the “Aguiar Fishery.” They are used as bait for skipjack fishing.
(Courtesy of a tourist agency in Miyakojima City, Okinawa Prefecture) [Jiji Press]
On remote islands throughout Japan, where depopulation is on the rise, traditional fishing methods are facing the threat of extinction due to a lack of successors. As a valuable means of securing local specialty fish, local governments and fishermen are desperate to pass on the traditional fishing method to the future while conducting PR activities to secure the bearers.
◇Lack of Aguiar Fishermen to Bait Bonito Fishery
On Irabu Island (Miyakojima City) in Okinawa Prefecture, the survival of the “agiya fishery,” in which six to seven fishermen dive underwater to catch gurukun (redlip mullet), is becoming increasingly difficult. Adult gurukun are eaten as sashimi or deep-fried, and the 3- to 5-centimeter-long fry are used as bait for skipjack pole-and-line fishing, the island’s mainstay fishery.
There are a total of five skipjack fishing boats in Okinawa Prefecture. The period from June to August is the peak season for skipjack fishing from Sarahama fishing port in the eastern part of Irabu Island, and expectations are high for a good catch.
In recent years, however, fishermen on Irabu Island have been lamenting that they have been unable to secure young gurukun, which are indispensable for skipjack fishing. The reason for this is that “the aging of the fishermen engaged in aguiya fishing has made it difficult to recruit sufficient numbers of fishermen, and it is not uncommon for them to be unable to go out fishing” (Irabu Island Fishermen’s Cooperative Association).
When bait is in short supply, frozen kibinago, which can be procured on the island, is sometimes used, but local fishermen explain that “compared to gurukun, skipjack are much less likely to bite. The island’s fishermen say that the fishing for skipjack is sometimes forced to give up because of the scarcity of bait due to the lack of aguiyah fishing.
The island’s population is declining, with many young people leaving for the cities, and the aging of the population is remarkable. Local fishermen are concerned that not only the aguiyah fishery but also skipjack fishing will decline, and they are calling for people from outside the island to join them, using Internet social networking sites (SNS) and other means to encourage those who can dive to join the aguiyah fishery.
◇The raw material for “flying fish,” which is used to make “sago dashi,” is hard to come by.
A yellow light has been shining on the traditional fishing method along the coast of the Oki Islands in Shimane Prefecture. The area has long been producing “AGO-DASHI,” a popular dashi with a refreshing flavor. Gill net and dragnet fishing for flying fish, the raw material for making this dashi, has been declining due to the aging of fishermen and a decrease in catches, making it difficult to secure flying fish.
The local people consume flying fish by making various processed products such as dried, smoked, and minced fish, as well as using it as a soup stock. Many processors lament that they will no longer be able to produce these traditional flavors.
In an effort to protect Oki’s fishing industry, Shimane Prefecture has established a training program to secure fishermen and a support grant program to help them become independent fishermen. However, the difficulty is that fishermen cannot make a living only from flying fish fishing, which is short, with the peak season lasting only about a month, mainly in June.
In an effort to somehow keep gillnet and dragnet fishing alive, the prefecture is appealing to fishermen to “become fishermen of Oki by combining other fishing methods in a composite fishery,” such as diving for abalone and turban shell, as well as gillnet fishing for mebaru and Japanese anchovy.
◇Tatekiri net fishing and other fishing methods are in danger of disappearing in the Izu Islands
In the Izu Islands, a fishing method that has been practiced for centuries is in danger of disappearing. The “tatekiri net fishing” practiced along the coasts of Kozushima and Niijima involved catching hawkfish and other high-end fish by surrounding the seafloor and the surface of the water with a large, band-shaped net.
In the past, when ice was hard to come by, the fishermen used this unusual fishing method to bring fresh, undamaged fish to Edo (present-day Tokyo), and the nets were very useful. In recent years, however, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government’s Fisheries Division explains that the use of tatekiri nets has almost disappeared due to sluggish landings and the aging of the fishing industry.
In the Izu Islands, the survival of the pole-and-line fishery on Hachijojima Island, which catches mullet jacks, which are used to make kusaya, and the gill net fishery, which catches flying fish, is also in jeopardy due to a decrease in the number of fishermen.
The Tokyo Metropolitan Government’s Fisheries Division is concerned about these traditional fishing methods, saying, “Once they are discontinued, fishing equipment and various fishing techniques will not be passed on and will cease to exist. Since fishing is an important industry for the island, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government is “urgently considering ways to support the traditional fishing methods so that they can be preserved for future generations.
▼ Jiji.com News (May 24, 2022) Serial “Big catch! From “Fisheries Department Manager’s Fish Topics
Let’s Practice with Quizzes No. 31 = (Food Culture, Chronicle) = “ Warmed Sake”
～Questions will be given for each field in the official DENKEN textbook (now on sale)
Warming sake to enhance its flavor
Question: As autumn approaches, it’s time to enjoy kanzake (heated sake). In which period did the custom of heating sake to drink it warm begin? (See the next issue for the answer and explanation.)
The sequence of actions involved in serving matcha in the tea ceremony, or temae.
Previous Answer and Explanation
Question: In the tea ceremony, the season of “Nagori” is celebrated after the middle of October, and many tea ceremonies are held in autumn. What is the name of the tea ceremony commonly seen these days, where the tea is served at a table and on chairs?
Answer: Ryureitemae
Explanation: In ryurei-demae, the tea ceremony is held at a table, and both the master and the guests sit on chairs. It was invented by Gengensai, the 11th generation of Urasenke, at the request of the governor of Kyoto Prefecture, to entertain foreign guests at the 1872 Kyoto Exposition. As long as you have the right utensils, you do not need a tea room to hold a tea ceremony, and not only foreigners but also the elderly and those who have difficulty sitting on the floor can casually enjoy the beauty of the tea ceremony while appreciating its style and beauty.
From DENKEN Association
Two traditional craft stores in Tokyo operated by Made in Japan Project Co. The shops will offer a 5% discount on merchandise and workshop participation fees. For more details, please refer to the DENKEN official website for the benefits for those who have passed the test.
Editorial Postscript
We are pleased to present Denken Tsushin No. 31. I was reading the novel “Kushihikichimori” by Nobori Kiuchi, an Akutagawa Prize-winning author, and was struck in the knees when I read the line, “A craftsman’s skills are not his own, but are on loan from his ancestors and must be passed on to the next generation. I felt that it is the role of DENKEN to spread and pass on the skills we have now, and to pass them on to the next generation. The examinations will begin at the end of this month.